Forum Replies Created
-
Lesley and Ingel only have sporadic internet access and then, more often than not, they can't use their memory stick at internet cafes. I am posting this with their permission.10/06/07We were on the road at 9.20 and decided to use the toll roads to avoid Nice and Monaco. We were making such good time that we stayed on them all the way down to La Spezia (Italy) and the woman in the toll both asked a man what category we were because we were towing a trailer. He said class 3 so we really paid heaps for the tolls. First and last time in Italy! As we crossed the border into Italy we stopped at the booth and asked 2 policemen what speed we could travel at towing the trailer. They had no idea as trailers behind motorbikes are unheard of in Italy “Moto si, Caravane non”. One went and looked in his book from the back of his 4x4 while the other called into head office. We were there 10 minutes when they finally came back and said 150 and pointed to 125 on the dial. The toll roads are 130 so that is good. Sweet, no more travelling at 90k. They merrily waved us on our journey. For more than an hour when we first entered Italy we did not ride on a road per se. We were going through tunnels and then over bridges above the towns below us. Most interesting and amazing feats of engineering. We found the camp with no probs thanks to Emily and joined the queue at no. 8 of those waiting to get in. Everything closes from 1pm – 3pm, including camp site offices. We waited an hour and then were told to choose where we wanted to go. Again, not allowed to park next to the tent but this time not far away. This camp ground sits along a river with some very nice launches moored next to the bar and along the river. As elsewhere on this side of Italy, hills abound and surround us. We have electricity but had to buy a plug to use in camp grounds because our European plug will not do! However, the best news yet is that camping grounds in Europe will not allow men to swim in their pools wearing beach shorts. So Ingel is off to buy a pair of speedos and I can’t wait – yeah right! And Ingel is really looking forward to it – yeah right! I reckon after seeing Ingel they might change the rules! 11/06/07We decided to get up early and head for the 9km/5hr walk around Cinque Terre before the sun became too fierce. We made it into La Spezia and found the train station and bought a ticket for all day on and off trains and buses and the UNESCO walk. This walk follows the path that links the five towns (hence the name Cinque) that were begun 1000yrs ago by peasant farmers levelling out terraces in the cliff and hillsides. Until last century, the path was their only connection. We decided to start at Riomaggiore and walk west so we could have a longer train ride back at the end of the day. We strolled along the 20 minute Walk of Lovers towards Manarola thinking what a doddle. Then we had 365 steps to climb up to Corniglia. From here the walk to the next town is 1 1/2hrs up the cliff and hill and down the other side. It is very steep in places and it was extremely hot and sunny. We were meeting many people who were only do parts of the walk and the rest by bus or train or on other days. We were determined to go all the way. We stopped at a tiny café at the very top for Ingel to have a cold beer and me another bottle of water (my second so far since setting out). As we came down into Vernazza it looked magical with a fort and towers on the water’s edge.
%20(Small).jpg)
We had lunch at a café looking over the beach and were serenaded by an Italian quartet. After lunch we began the last 1 ½ hr climb and drop to Monterosso. Whew, by far the hardest. At times the track cut into the cliff face is only one person wide and meeting others coming the other can be tricky. The very rocky terrain played havoc with feet just months after surgery and Ingel’s knees hurt from the extremely steep steps going down. It really would have helped to have had mountain goat in the genes somewhere. We eventually made it just an extra 30mins than the recommended time.%20(Small).jpg)
%20(Small).jpg)
Both of us were straight into the sea to cool off and ease the tense muscles. Well worth it, but I think there are two trips here – one to do the walk and one to spend some time exploring each little village. The scenery from the paths is just stunning, with the Ligurian Sea a beautiful blue and very clear. Well worth the effort. Certainly not to be done in the height of summer though, we were doing it in 30 degrees plus and that was too hot.So far our interaction with Italians has not been as pleasant as with the French. We have yet to be spoken to politely or with a smile. My Italian is limited to “One chocolate ice-cream please”, “Good morning”, “Very beautiful legs” “Non-Capisco”, “Prego”, “una momento per favore” and “’Scusa”, phrases taught to me by my father after his time spent here during WWII, (and some of those won’t be very helpful to me). However, we always start a conversation with “excuse me” and try our best with sign language. Hopefully, our language will improve and so will their attitude towards us. The houses are all made of concrete, stone or brick, the same as in France (we saw only 2 wooden houses riding through France) and most have untidy paint work and some have crumbling concrete and stone. This all gives the impression of things being very old. There are different colours on the houses here which is a change from the orange/pale apricot we saw in France.Riding along the roads round here and in our campsite jasmine abounds giving off a most beautiful perfume. The bike riders in Italy so far seem to be more sports bike oriented but they still ride as crazily as in France. Most car drivers in France were very courteous but not so here in Italy. In France we were only overtaken once on a main road but here they tend to do it anywhere. The scooter riders are crazy in both countries……fast, weaving in and out and very little clothing. We certainly get looked at in all our gear. However, we have joined them a bit and discarded our gloves as it is too hot.We blew a fuse and so called in to a scooter shop. He hummed and haaed, said ‘non’ and sent us 2km down to the roundabout, turn left, go along to the trattoria before the bridge………..all in Italian and sign language! We understood duo km, roundabout, left, trattoria and so set off and there right by the trattoria was an auto electrician. Nice. He rummaged around and managed to find what we wanted. We paid him more than he asked because we were so grateful to have it sorted. He gave us a big friendly smile and wave goodbye. %20(Small).jpg)
