Home Forums Motorcycle Tech Talk Emission setup on NZ market bikes

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  • pdmeikle57
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    Post count: 68

    Hi all

    As I have mentioned previously I recently imported an ex-CHP 2000 R1100RT-P

    Now as this beastie came from the republic of Kalifornistan it has the meanest/leanest emission control settings.

    The standard set up of these bikes is:

    Catalytic converter, O2 sensor and a CCP (Cat Code Plug) in the fuse box that maps pins 30 and 87.

    What this results in is a pretty wicked surge...which my bike currently suffers from.

    My question is this;

    What is the standard set up of local market 1100RT's ?

    Do they have a CAT? any CCP and if so what pins does it connect? An O2 sensor? and do they come with a CO pot for adjusting idle mixture?

    I'm planning on removing the CAT (either some surgery on the standard exhaust or fabbing up a replacement for the CAT/muffler.

    There is all sorts of conflicting info on this subject on the net (surprise, surprise) so I figured the best idea was just to find out what bikes here are running and copy it.

    Thanks in advance

    Tracy

    Anonymous
    Guest
    Post count: 2134

    Tracy, I’ve got an NZ R1150R with a bit of a surge, and the local dealer says it is related to the CAT, I will be ditching it as soon as possible as well. I got some info from a posting on another forum about 8 months ago which suggested the samething…ditch the CAT. I vaguely recall some mention on the different maps and the colour coding etc.

    The guys on this forum http://www.r1150r.org/board which is predominantly US based have a lot of answers, give them a try there're very helpful.
    Steve

    Stuart Burns
    Participant
    Post count: 71

    My experience with a single spark 1100S and twin spark 1150GS, is that the best set up is to dump the cat, by whatever means, Y-piece, remus system etc etc, and install a Techlusion fuel adjustment device. Don’t know if they’re available in NZ, but you can certainly get one from the US or UK. Website http://www.techlusion.com

    pdmeikle57
    Participant
    Post count: 68

    Thanks guys

    I've done some more snooping and come to the following:

    Bikes for NZ/Auss/Canada don't have a CAT or any CCP plug.

    They run a seperate "CO potentiometer" which you plug into the existing wiring loom. This is used for setting the idle mixture. If you remove the CAT & CCP and don't add a CO pot then the bike will idle rich. You can buy the CO pot from BMW dealers.

    So, the config to aim for is:

    As mentioned, remove the CAT

    Remove any CCP plug, then remove the Motronic fuse for 1 minute to reset the unit.

    Install a CO pot and set it with the bike hooked up to an exhaust gas analyser.

    Apparantly, when you remove the CCP the motrinic unit ignores the O2 sensor.

    Now I just need to find someone that can weld stainless steel.

    Cheers
    Tracy

    pdmeikle57
    Participant
    Post count: 68

    I should have pointed out that this relates to the 1100, not sure about the 1150 and wether you need a CCP of some sort.

    Grant Freeman
    Participant
    Post count: 89

    Hi Tracy,Although you wrote this up a few years ago now, did you make any further progress on the issue?They run a seperate "CO potentiometer" which you plug into the existing wiring loom. This is used for setting the idle mixture. If you remove the CAT & CCP and don't add a CO pot then the bike will idle rich. You can buy the CO pot from BMW dealers.So, the config to aim for is:As mentioned, remove the CATRemove any CCP plug, then remove the Motronic fuse for 1 minute to reset the unit.Install a CO pot and set it with the bike hooked up to an exhaust gas analyser.Reason for asking is that I am thinking of fitting a Zorst http://www.motorcycleexhausts.co.nz/ pipe and muffler to my R850R and when I read your comment about the CO Potentiometer, I stopped and now need to get a better understanding of this before I proceed further.Cheers,Mike

    Anonymous
    Inactive
    Post count: 72

    A shortcut long term trick is to try a nippondenso ik22 iridium spark plugs they help no end with lean run conditions plus they will work for 80,000kms

    Grant Freeman
    Participant
    Post count: 89

    Hi Uncamoose,The problem that Tracy identified was running rich at idle, and I don’t see what Iridium spark plugs will do, as the spark is not hotter than a "standard" rated spark plug; it is just that the iridium is a harder material than the "normal" electrode and hence the reason why they will supposedly last longer.For the cost of two NGK or Bosch spark plugs and the few minutes it takes to change them, I don’t see Iridium plugs to be an option.Thanks anyway.Cheers,Mike 

    Anonymous
    Inactive
    Post count: 72

    I negleted to say that these plugs ignite on a broader range totally because of the hotter delivery ,they don't foul as easy. Yes they are a bit pricey but i'll supply from work (Counties Toyota ) at cheaper rate. may next service on the K1200rs will get a set. I don't think for a moment that they will  be all to end all but  they will most likely help certainly on overall fuel consumption

    Grant Freeman
    Participant
    Post count: 89

    Hi Uncamoose,If the iridium plugs are a direct cross reference match for the OEM plugs, they will not be hotter, than the NGK or Bosch plug - they can’t be, as you will run the risk of damaging engine parts if they are.The intention of the iridium is for life expectancy of the spark plug.Cheers,Mike 😮

    Anonymous
    Guest
    Post count: 2134

    From what I have read the CCP plug is used to select the engine mapping. There are 5 or 6 maps preloaded in the MA2.4 ECU for the various models a code plug fitted when the bike is built to enable the appropriate map.  With a plug in the O2 sensor is used in what is referred to as closed loop. The system squirts fuel in , measures the result and if outside the desired range adjusts the fuel delivery. No plug puts the bike in open mode (no feedback from O2 sensor) and a trim pot is used to adjust the Co levels. Closed mode means the whole sytem has to be working perfectly - valve clearances, throttle balance etc can affect it. Engines with cats should run in closed mode. My 1100 S surged a little bit when I got it , a quick fettle , valves and throtlles cured it, now pulls like a train from idle in any gear.

    Grant Freeman
    Participant
    Post count: 89

    Hi BillyBM,Thanks for your response. My R850R does not have an O2 sensor stabbed into the cat, in fact when I checked the vin number out for my bike on http://www.bmw-z1.com/VIN/VINdecode-e.cgi it says I don’t even have a catalyser.So from what you are saying my bike does not have a plug (no feedback) so where is the Co trim pot that I would have to adjust presumably, if I fit an aftermarket muffler and pipe to replace the OEM collector box and muffler?  😕Cheers,Mike

    Murray
    Participant
    Post count: 487

    If you don't have a CAT stick the Zorst on then, if there's any emmissions issue, adjust the CO content of the exhaust gas at the CO potentiometer (left side of bike under the seat) with a medium flat blade screw driver. Just remember with any exhaust gas test all basic settings (timing, valve adjustment, throttle cable adjustment etc.) must be correct and the engine must be at, but not above operating temperature.

    Grant Freeman
    Participant
    Post count: 89

    Hi NZGSer,Thanks for your reply. I shall have to have a look under my seat on the left hand side and see if I can see this CO potentiometer 😕 I cannot say that I have seen it before when I have had the seat off, but then I was not looking for a potentiometer.Is it obvious to see it? near the air fliter box, fuse box, is it connected to anything other than wires?Cheers,Mike 

    Anonymous
    Guest
    Post count: 2134

    You can also have a plug to select the map but not have an O2 sensor in which case it is working in open loop mode all the time, this also does not require a CO pot, but one is fitted to US bikes to comply with regs.  BTW I believe the closed loop only operates at constant throttle or with small changes and it is the feedback process combined with set up errors that create the surging. If you are accelerating hard then the system is in open mode. Removing the feedback may cure the surge, but if the set up is not correct it may still surge.

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